Welcome to the Agroforestry Word of the Week blog!
We’re making it easy for you to get into the world of agroforestry by sharing common agroforestry terms and examples with you every Wednesday. Subscribe here to receive your weekly word and start building your agroforestry vocabulary and knowledge.
Propagate /ˈpräpəˌɡāt/ – verb
September 18, 2019
Definition: To produce or breed a new plant from the existing parent plant. Species can be propagated through direct seeding, cutting, layering, or grafting.
In the Forest Garden: Trees for the Future farmers use propagation methods to accelerate and diversify fruit production in their forest gardens. Propagating trees, such as citrus trees, allows farmers to control fruit quality, quantity and increase a tree’s tolerance to climatic extremes.
Did you know? Ungrafted or un-budded citrus trees will flower and fruit within five years after planting, if in adequate conditions, whereas grafted and budded trees can begin fruiting after one year.
Living Fence – /ˈliviNG fens/ – noun
September 11th, 2019
Definition: A commonly-used agroforestry technology, generally composed of one to two rows of trees and shrubs densely planted around the perimeter of a field. The natural barrier of trees and shrubs protects the field from grazing animals and wind erosion. The species that make up a living fence can also produce tangible benefits such as food, fuelwood, fodder, and other raw materials.
In the Forest Garden: Trees for the Future has developed a modification of living fences that is proving extremely effective and productive, called a green wall, which consists of three rows of trees and shrubs.
Benefits of a living fence or green wall:
- Mark boundary lines between farms and to separate or segment fields used for distinct purposes.
- Protect and keep animals from intruding or straying.
- Protect Forest Gardens from animal damage or theft.
- Reduce erosion and wind damage.
- Eliminate the cost of building and maintaining dead fences.
- Produce useful products within border space that would otherwise be
- Mitigate damage from termites, carpenter ants and dry rot, which are a continuous headache in maintaining dead wooden fences and posts.
Guild – /ɡild/ – noun
September 4, 2019
Definition: A guild is a grouping of plants, trees, animals, and insects that work together to help ensure their collective health and productivity. All of the components of a guild serve one or more functions that contribute to a healthy, natural environment. One component on its own may be weak, but the combination of all of them together adds to the overall strength and longevity of the web.
The 7 main components of a Forest Garden Guild:
- Providers – plants that provide food and money, e.g. fruits, vegetables, grains, and timber.
- Fertilizers – legumes that fix nitrogen into the soil.
- Miners – deep rooted plants or tubers that open the soil and bring up nutrients from deep in the subsoil, releasing them as organic matter in the leaf litter.
- Climbers – to take advantage of vertical space.
- Supporters – plants that provide support for the climbers.
- Cover crops – shallow-rooted, surface-level plants that cover the ground and shade and protect the soil, hold moisture, and control weeds.
- Protectors – plants that protect your site and the crops within, e.g. insectary plants, aromatic pest confusers, and green walls.
Learn more about building guilds in Module 15: Optimizing the Understory of the Technical Manual.
/slaSH/ – /and/ – /bərn/ /ˈaɡrəˌkəlCHər/ – noun
August 28th, 2019
Definition: A commonly used agricultural practice in which wild or forested land is clear cut and any remaining vegetation is burned to make room for farmer-planted crops.
Did you know? The resulting ash from the fires provides a somewhat nutrient-rich layer of matter that can benefit the crops planted within the next two or three years.
The problem: This layer of nutrients only lasts for a few seasons. After those nutrients are used up the farmer is left with nutrient-scarce, degraded land that is no longer usable. Farmers then abandon the land and move on to another forested area and continue the slash-and-burn process. This creates a cycle of deforestation and degrading soils for short-lived benefits. Additionally, fires can easily burn out of control, destroying much more vegetation than originally intended.
In the Forest Garden: Trees for the Future does not endorse slash-and-burn agriculture. Permaculture and agroforestry have proven to provide far more nutrients than the short-lived burst of nutrients created by burning. By working with the land instead of against it, Forest Garden farmers are able to benefit from trees and native biomass.
In the World: Slash-and-burn tactics are the reason for so many fires burning in the Amazon today. Keep an eye out on TREES’ social media channels for an in-depth look at these practices and alternative solutions.
Nematode – /ˈnēməˌtōd/ – noun
August 21st, 2019
Definition: An elongated and parasitic cylindrical worm found in animals, plants or free-living in soil or water. Nematodes are a pest commonly found in agriculture, and can be prevented using Integrated Pest Management (IPM).
Ways to Prevent Nematodes:
- Intercropping with Marigolds – Marigold roots repel nematodes and can be easily planted at the beginning of rain periods, with very little effort. Plant them on the bunds surrounding your permagardens and disperse them in beds or other parts of your Forest Garden with plants susceptible to nematode attacks. Most marigolds are prolific seeders, so the seeds collected from dead flowers can easily be replanted.
- Crop Rotating – One of the best ways to avoid continuous nematode infection is to rotate crops susceptible to nematodes, never planting them in the same place continuously. Bananas and papayas, which are especially sensitive to nematodes, should never be planted in the same location as other susceptible crops or after removal.
- Enriching Your Soil – Natural enemies of nematodes are generally present in healthy soils enriched with organic matter. Adding mulch and manure to cuvettes and keeping the soil around trees healthy and full is a strong preventative measure, and also helps the trees stay healthy so that their own defenses can protect them against nematode attacks.
Find out more pest prevention methods in Module 16 of the Forest Garden Training Manual.
Diversification – /dəˌvərsəfəˈkāSH(ə)n/ – noun
August 14th, 2019
Definition: The practice of planting a variety of species on a plot of land to ensure maximum resiliency and return.
In the Forest Garden: Diversification is the second phase of the Forest Garden Approach where farmers will begin to plant higher-value vegetables, fruit, nut, and timber trees. They will also learn increasingly advanced skills and techniques that will help them manage their Forest Gardens more effectively and sustainably. Early on in the diversification segment, farmers learn to plant permagardens and fill them with diverse, nutritious vegetables. They will then learn to plant various fruit, nut, and timber trees as they proceed through the project in years two and three.
Through training events and follow-up support, farmers’ Forest Garden knowledge and experience will increase gradually as they learn, practice, then adopt new and more advanced techniques and concepts. Generally, farmers will have participated in all of the relevant diversification phase training events and adopted the practices they learned to date. The approach then transitions to Phase III: Optimization.
Learn more about the diversification phase in Module 2 of the Forest Garden Training Manual.
Greenbreak – /ɡrēnˌbrāk/ – noun
August 7th, 2019
Definition: A wide strip of densely-planted trees that are specifically chosen for their high moisture content and lack of flammable biomass. When mature, the dense canopy of a greenbreak will help to minimize fire-prone undergrowth while the trees’ fire-resistant leaves and trunks will deter spreading flames. Succulent, shade-tolerant crops like banana, papaya, and root crops can also be planted under greenbreaks to create a barrier that will further suppress impending fires.
In the Forest Garden: The width of fuelbreaks varies broadly depending on the fire risk conditions, slope, and amount of flammable vegetation. Generally, the width of fuelbreaks should be between 12 and 35 meters; the greater the fire risk conditions, the greater the width. Three to four rows of densely planted fire-retardant trees and crops is generally a good amount. An easy to establish canopy that retains succulent, green foliage throughout the year without dropping flammable leaves is key.
Recommended Greenbreak Species:
- Anacardium occidentale
- Ficus elastica
- Mangifera indica
Learn more about greenbreaks in Module 8 of the Forest Garden Training Manual.
Apiculture – /ˈāpəˌkəlCHər/ – noun
July 31st, 2019
Definition: The technical term for beekeeping, or the occupation of owning and breeding bees for their honey. In addition to producing honey, bees serve an important purpose in a Forest Garden, where they pollinate trees and plants and keep them healthy until the harvest. Many crops are dependent on bee pollination for survival and growth.
The Economic Benefit: Beekeeping is a common pastime among the farmers we work with. Simon Peter and his son Odongo, farmers from Uganda, have taken a deep interest in beekeeping and now house six different hives on their land. They have melded traditional local practices with new research in order to build hives, welcome bees, and help them prosper. Read more about Simon and Odongo here.
In the Forest Garden: The Albizia Lebbeck is a medium-sized deciduous tree which can grow to 15-20 meters tall. It has large flowers which attract bees, helping it flourish. This tree produces high-quality wood as well as fodder for animals, and is great for soil improvement. Without pollination and bees, it wouldn’t be able to provide all of its resources to farmers.
Learn more about what trees are great for bees in Module 9 of the Technical Manual.
Prune – /pro͞on/ – verb
July 24th, 2019
Definition: To trim or cut away parts of trees or shrubs in order to support tree growth and maintenance. Pruning can be quite technical and labor-intensive, requiring different practices and considerations depending on the species, variety, and climate. It must also be done regularly to increase production and reduce risk of disease.
Benefits of Pruning
- Promotes healthy, vigorous growth by strengthening the root system and the branches you want to grow.
- Encourages production by encouraging bud growth, which increases the quantity and quality of fruit and nut production.
- Prevents and controls disease by identifying and pruning diseased branches early to maintain tree health.
In the Forest Garden: Make sure you always prune branches with a freshly sharpened, clean tool to ensure clean cuts and reduce damage and exposure to disease. You can use pruning shears, a knife, or a machete for smaller branches. For larger branches, it is best to use a saw to ensure a clean cut. You should never pull, twist, or rip branches off, even if you have already cut through the majority of the branch. This can tear the bark on the branch or stem that you are removing it from, leaving a large wound. When removing branches always cut them flush with the branch or stem from which they originate by keeping the flat side of the pruning tool flush against it as you make the cut.
Learn more about pruning techniques in Module 11 of the Forest Garden Training Manual.
Swale – /swāl/ – noun
Definition: A long trench dug in the ground meant to catch runoff water, soil, and organic matter. Swales are often made in conjunction with berms, the soil removed to create the swale can generally be used to create a berm of earth on one or both sides of the swale. Berms and swales combined allow water to enter and remain in the landscape more evenly.
In the Forest Garden: A standard berm and swale is a long, low combination of the two that snakes across the contour of the Forest Garden site or surrounds a permagarden. This protects the uphill portion of land from fast-moving runoff and catches excess runoff on the downhill portion. Standard berms and swales allow for the most uniform collection of organic material across a Forest Garden site, and are commonly used in fields combined with alley cropping. They also create a guiding contour line that can be followed when ploughing in the early years of a Forest Garden.
Learn more about creating berms and swales in Module 15 of the Forest Garden Training Manual.
Understory – /ˈəndərˌstôrē/ – noun
July 10th, 2019
Definition: The layer of plants that make up the space beneath the canopy trees in a Forest Garden. The understory includes short trees, shrubs, herbaceous plants, vines, and ground cover under the canopy. It provides a wide variety of products while also maintaining soil fertility, reducing moisture loss, and protecting against pests. By integrating understory plants into your Forest Garden, the farmer can diversify the timing of harvests to provide more frequent produce while further increasing the total productivity and sustainability of their site.
Benefits of a healthy understory:
Reduces evaporation of water through the leaves and branches of plants, which conserves moisture in the plants and reduces water use
Protects from temperature extremes and fluctuations
Shields crops from winds
Suppresses invasive weeds, which tend to prefer open conditions and full sun
Supports a range of beneficial soil microbes that do not thrive in the open
Learn more about how to optimize the understory in Module 15 of the Forest Garden Training Manual.
Loam – /lōm/ – noun
July 3rd, 2019
Definition: Soil containing a balance of sand, silt and clay, plus humus and nutrient-rich materials. Loam is considered ideal for raising seedlings. It’s dark in color, and soft and crumbly in your hands. Loam holds water and nutrients well, but also allows for drainage and movement of air between soil particles and through the root zone.
In the Forest Garden: A perfect loam is not always easy to create, but Trees for the Future farmers can get close by mixing the soils they have access to, along with some humus, compost, or dried manure, to provide nutrients for their seedlings.
Make Your Own: Try mixing 3 parts topsoil to 1 part humus-rich soil to 1 part sand.
Learn more about soil types and finding the right one for your seedlings in Module 5 of the Forest Garden Training Manual.
Anthracnose – /anˈTHrakˌnōs/ – noun
June 26th, 2019
Definition: Anthracnose is one of the most common fungus diseases that can affect the Forest Gardens we grow. The symptoms are similar across all infected tree species; it attacks branches, leaves, fruit, and sometimes young roots, eventually leading to the death of the tree. Anthracnose-infected leaves and fruit have small, round spots that are dark brown to black in color, holes can sometimes appear instead of spots.
In the Forest Garden: Anthracnose plagues mango trees the most, although it may also attack citrus, avocado and other species. When it attacks mangos, the extremities turn brown and the roots may dry up. The disease can also manifest itself as cankers on leaves, roots, and fruit.
Protecting Against Anthracnose:
Maintain well-drained soil, and do not allow ripening fruit to touch the soil.
Field sanitation is key; make sure your garden is well-cared for and that you catch anything before the fungus spreads too seriously.
Prune and burn all infected branches, leaves, and fruit. Don’t forget to prune with clean tools!
Learn more about common fungi and ways to protect against them in Module 16 of the Forest Garden Training Manual.
Cuvette – /kyü-ˈvet/ – noun
June 19th, 2019
Definition: A “cuvette” is a flat, circular area around a tree which is bordered by a small wall or ridge of soil, forming a basin. A single “cuvette” is made around newly planted seedling trees, while double “cuvettes” are made around adult trees.
Benefits of making and maintaining cuvettes:
- Conserves and concentrates water at the root level. The walls of the cuvettes hold the water around the roots to avoid runoff.
- Helps stabilize adult trees by promoting lateral root growth.
- Aids in the prevention of disease, especially fungus disease, by not concentrating water at the base of the trunk.
- Pest control, especially termites, by keeping mulch and fertilizer away from the trunk.
Learn more about this common agroforestry technique inModule 10 of the Forest Garden Training Manual.
Firebreak – /ˈfī(-ə)r- brāk/ – noun
June 12th, 2019
Definition: A strip of land around a planting site that has been cleared of vegetation in order to reduce the risk of fire spreading to the protected area. By removing any vegetation and making the ground bare, fires are more likely to subside for lack of fuel once they reach the firebreak.
In the Forest Garden: A firebreak can be made by clearing a four-meter strip of vegetation around the planting site, leaving a space of vegetation about 12 meters wide, then clearing another four meter strip on the other side. The 12-meter strip in between the four-meter clearings should then be carefully control-burned. While firebreaks are very beneficial for fire suppression, they can also be problematic as they require existing vegetation to be removed, taking valuable land out of productivity and exposing soils to further degradation. We recommend the use of multipurpose fuelbreaks or greenbreaks that provide fire protection as well as useful products like food, fodder, timber and fuelwood.
Learn more about this common agroforestry technique in Module 8 of the Forest Garden Training Manual.
Cover Crop – /ˈkəvər kräp/
June 5th, 2019
Definition: A method used to reduce soil erosion and improve soil fertility.
In the Forest Garden: Forest Garden farmers use cover crops between widely spaced perennial crops such as fruit trees and coffee plants. By planting short-term, nitrogen-fixing legumes, farmers can ensure more nutrient rich soil. Cowpeas are often used as a cover crop because they are drought-resistant, provide biomass that can be used as green manure, and fix nitrogen – plus the peas can be harvested without affecting the soil.
Additional Benefits of Cover Crops:
- Improved soil structure and soil fertility.
- Reduced soil erosion and runoff.
- Suppression of weeds.
- Production of food and animal forage.
- Improved soil moisture and reduced surface crusting.
- Reduced fluctuations in soil temperatures.
- Some cover crops can provide good cash income.
- Cover crops can be a good alternative source of mulch, especially useful in semi-arid lands where crop residues are important animal feed.
Alley Cropping /ˈali krɒpiNG/
May 29th, 2019
Definition: Planting rows of widely spaced trees, allowing for enough space between each row (alleys) to plant additional crops. A method used to enhance soil fertility and reduce soil erosion caused by wind and water.
In the Forest Garden: Although timber and fruit trees are often used in alley cropping systems, Trees for the Future encourages Forest Garden farmers in Sub-Saharan Africa to use fast-growing, multi-purpose agroforestry trees. These trees allow for greater soil stability, water availability, and soil fertility for the diverse trees and crops that are grown within the alleys. The trees must be pruned periodically during the growing season to prevent too much shade on the growing crops. The pruning also provides valuable biomass that can be used to provide nutrients to the Forest Garden.
Rose, a Kenyan Forest Garden Farmer, planted Pigeon Peas and used the alleyways to plant maize and beans. The Pigeon Peas fix nitrogen in the soil, plus Rose can harvest and sell the peas for profit.
Learn more about this common agroforestry technique in Module 8 of the Forest Garden Training Manual.
Cut-and-Carry Feeding – /kət-and-‘kerē/ – noun
May 22nd, 2019
Definition: An alternative to “open grazing” when raising livestock. Farmers grow or forage livestock feed (cut) and bring the food to the animals (carry) rather than having them roam for food.
Cut-and-carry represents a smart, blended livestock management approach that is healthier for the animals, more profitable for the farmer, and better for the planet. The farmer can provide more high quality fodder for the animals like mulberry and caliandra (pictured).
In the developing tropics, families typically use walls, thorny branches, poles or multi-purpose living fences to keep cows, sheep, and goats enclosed. This keeps them from wandering and protects them from people, pests, diseases, and the hot sun.
Benefits of Cut-and-Carry Feeding:
- More efficient use of available land
- Improved gains and productivity
- Reduced risk of damaging the ecosystem
- Increased feed efficiency
- Reduced input cost and replacement of costly animal feed
- Healthier for animals with higher quality fodder readily available
- Better disease management and protection
- Efficient manure management
- Increase quality of certain products such as meat and milk
- Able to be implemented with 100% appropriate (i.e. locally available) technology
Side View Mapping – /sīd vyo͞o ˈmapiNG/ – noun
May 15th, 2019
If you missed last week’s phrase, take a second to learn about Top View Mapping, because these two practices are best used in conjunction with each other.
Definition: A visual aid used to improve space utilization when planting. A side view map is a hand drawn picture of the different layers and heights of plants that grow on a farm. A side view map is helpful in identifying gaps to be filled with new and complementary plant species.
Synonym: Vertical Map
In the Forest Garden: Forest Gardens are strategically designed to fill space both horizontally and vertically. Creating tightly knit plants and tree groups that optimize the use of the vertical space available can substantially improve yields, even on small plots of land.
- Inform decisions about which trees, plants, and crops will best diversify the Forest Garden.
- Periodically evaluate and assess opportunities to better utilize and optimize the Forest Garden.
Learn more about side view mapping and how it’s implemented in Forest Gardens in Module 3 of the Forest Garden Technical Manual.
Top View Mapping – /täp vyo͞o ˈmapiNG/ – noun
May 8th, 2019
Definition: Top view mapping is used to help create a diagrammatic representation of a farmer’s field and serves as a planning tool for farmers to identify how they can optimize the use of horizontal space in their field. The map is drawn to approximate scale and can be used to estimate the actual land area and border lengths.
Synonym: Horizontal Mapping
In the Forest Garden: To equip farmers with the perspective and information they need to fully utilize the horizontal land area available to them, a top view map should include:
- Farm boundaries
- Key physical features within the farm
- Neighboring features relevant to the farming of the land
- An arrow to indicate North that helps orient the map
Transplanting – /tran(t)sˈplant-iNG/ – noun
May 1st, 2019
Definition: The technique of moving a plant from one location to another. Most often, transplanting consists of moving a plant started from seed in optimal conditions and replanting it in another growing location.
General transplanting tips:
Never handle plants by their stems – Stems are vital to a plant’s health. The stems on transplants tend to be soft and easily damaged. When transplanting try always to hold plants either by gently cupping the root ball from the bottom, or by holding them by the leaves which are no great loss to the plant if they get damaged.
Water directly before and after transplanting – Plants need water as soon as they are transplanted. Do not leave fresh transplants in the ground for longer than 15 minutes before watering. If you see that transplants begin to wilt, water them immediately.
Transplant in the early morning or late afternoon – The sun is hot, especially in the middle of the day. For increased transplant success, only transplant early in the morning, or late in the afternoon to give them time to establish before facing the heat.
Transplant on time – Transplanting too early means young plants are not hardy enough to handle the stress of transplanting. Transplanting too late means young plants have started to outgrow the nursery and run the risk of having their roots damaged as they are removed from one another.
Soil Amendment – /soil əˈmen(d)mənt/ – noun
April 24th, 2019
Definition: Any substance added to the soil to improve plant growth. Soil amendments can be used to add nutrients, enhance soil structure, improve water retention, protect plants’ roots against pests and disease, or change the soil pH level.
Amendments Used in the Forest Garden:
When working with highly degraded soils, amendments are needed to improve both the nutrient content and structure of soils.
Bone meal: Made from crushed bones, this slow-release soil amendment contains large amounts of phosphorus and calcium. Adding bone meal to the soil is a good long-term soil correction strategy for pH problems.
Biochar/charcoal powder: This purified form of organic carbon is most useful for water retention, as it can hold up to six times its weight in water. Additionally, charcoal is covered in micropores, which provide living space for beneficial bacteria in the soil.
Leaves (green and brown): Decomposing quickly due to their size, leaves are useful for quick nitrogen and carbon inputs. As we’ve discussed in the Forest Garden Technical Manual, leaves can be a very useful green fertilizer or mulch.
Manure: One of the most readily available soil amendments in rural farming communities, manure is heavily loaded with nitrogen and decomposers. Manure will slowly break down, releasing nutrients and slightly improving soil structure.
You can read more about soil amendments at training.trees.org.
Hardening off – /ˈhärdn-iNG ôf/ – noun
April 10, 2019
Definition: The process of gradually introducing seedlings and plants to new and unprotected environments. Seedlings grow accustomed to the conditions of the environment in which they are grown. Hardening off seedlings is essentially easing seedlings into an environment with harsher conditions than those they’ve known since sprouting.
It Depends on the Climate: In warmer climates, gradually removing shade and reducing watering prepares the seedlings for heat and dry conditions. In cooler climates, plants are often started indoors or in a greenhouse. Gradually bringing them outdoors in Spring will prepare them for the fluctuating temperatures and wind gusts they will inevitably face.
In the Forest Garden: Approximately one month from the start of the rainy season,Trees for the Future farmers gradually begin removing the shading materials from over their nursery beds. Initially removing shade for one hour in the morning and one hour in the afternoon, after three or four days, they reduce shade by another couple of hours. After two to three weeks, the seedlings will tolerate full sunlight with minimum shock. Farmers also gradually extend the time between watering periods until seedlings are capable of surviving a week or more without water.
Composting – /ˈkämˌpōst-iNG/ – noun
April 10, 2019
Definition: The process by which organic materials considered to be waste products are recycled and decomposed. Together, the organic materials create nutrient-rich, organic matter (compost) that helps fertilize soils.
5 key elements needed for composting:
Did you know? Composting benefits go far beyond soil fertilization. Compost feeds an immense number of beneficial insects and microbes that in turn enhance the soil structure. These organisms burrow into the ground, creating networks of tunnels around the root systems of the plants, improving aeration and water infiltration. This allows for better root growth, enhances water drainage in clay soils, and improves water and nutrient retention in sandy soils.
In the Forest Garden
Once seeds are planted and the seed coats break down, compost in the soil will act like a sponge, absorbing the water and keeping it moist around the seed for a much longer time. This increases the speed of germination and the likelihood of the young seedling growing through periods of dry weather that would otherwise destroy the tender stems, roots and leaves.
Grafting – /ɡraft-iNG/ – noun
April 3, 2019
Definition: A common propagation technique used to increase productivity of a plant and the quality of its produce. An asexual propagation technique, grafting is done by joining the rootstock (lower portion) of one plant variety with the scion(upper portion) of another variety from a compatible species. The plant tissue of the rootstock and scion are joined together to establish a connection. It is important to correctly align the cambium layers (the growing tissue of plants) as this allows for the plants to become one, while still keeping the desirable characteristics of both.
Did you know? Typically, farmers will graft one variety with another but this does not always need to be the case. Once farmers have mastered the various grafting techniques, some will often graft multiple scions from 2 different compatible varieties to the same rootstock. The video below shows a grafted tree with limes, mandarins, and grapefruits all grown on the same rootstock.
- “T” Budding
- Chip Budding
- Side Graft
- Whip and Tongue Graft
You can see what these techniques look like and learn about each one at the Forest Garden Training Center.
Taproot – /ˈtapˌro͞ot/ – noun
March 27th, 2019
Definition: The largest, most central and dominant root of a primary root system. Developing from the radicle of a seed (the embryo), taproots are quick to grow directly down into the soil. Typically very thick, taproots are the central root from which the remaining roots of the root system will sprout.
In the Forest Garden: While certain taproots make for some delicious vegetables, like carrots and turnips, some can be a serious challenge to transplant. Since taproots naturally grow directly downward, they often end up deeper in the soil than other plants’ root systems, so it is more difficult to uproot a taproot system. Root damage is likely to stunt or kill the plant, so it is vital for farmers to avoid damaging the root.
A-frame – /ā,ə frām/ – noun
March 20, 2019
Definition: A wooden structure resembling the letter “A” that is used to identify the contour lines on sloped land. By attaching a rock that hangs from a string at the top of the “A”, the frame serves as a “level” and can accurately mark off the contours on sloped land to ensure that the rows of vegetation are planted at a uniform elevation.
In the Forest Garden: In order for farmers to benefit from contour planting, it is essential that they are able to accurately identify contour lines. If a farmer incorrectly marks the contours lines in his/her field, runoff can build up and flow along the vegetation, potentially causing more erosion than would normally happen, even without contour planting. To ensure farmers are contour planting correctly, they learn how to construct and calibrate the A-frame before going out into their field to mark contour lines.
Want to build your own?
Here is what you’ll need:
- Two 1.5 to 2 meter sticks or poles about 3 to 5 cm in diameter (wood, bamboo, plastic, or any other light-weight, sturdy material)
- One 1 to 1.5 meter stick of the same material
- Three nails, or 2 meters of twine/string for binding the wood together
- One 1.5 meter piece of twine/string for the level
- One round rock, about 5 cm in diameter
Learn how to build and use an A-frame here.
Contour Planting – /ˈkänˌto͝or plant-iNG/ – noun
Definition: A method or technique of planting vegetation (annual or perennial crops) on sloped land to reduce erosion and increase water retention and groundwater supply. To conserve water and reduce soil erosion, rows of vegetation must be planted from side to side, perpendicular to the slope and at an even elevation.
In the Forest Garden: It is extremely important for farmers to use contour planting whenever they are working on sloped lands. If a farmer plants their rows in the direction of the slope (top to bottom), as opposed to perpendicularly, heavy rains will flow unimpeded down the slope, displacing essential topsoil, water, and seeds.
Farmers also see the benefits of contour planting when it comes to labor. By planting the rows from side to side on the slope, rather than top to bottom, farmers are able to work more efficiently, significantly reducing the amount of effort/work needed for watering, planting, weeding and more.
Naturalized Plant /ˈnaCH(ə)rəˌlīzd plant/ – noun
March 6, 2019
Definition: A plant that is not originally native to an area, but has been introduced and planted to such an extent that it no longer needs human help to reproduce or maintain itself overtime.
In the Forest Garden: Farmers must be careful when deciding which naturalized plants grow in their field. While it may be less labor intensive to have plants and trees grow in your field with little to no care necessary, certain naturalized species known as invasive species become harmful and disrupt healthy ecosystems like Forest Gardens. A common example of this is Imperata cylindrica, also called ‘kunai grass’, native to east and southeast Asia, it is often used to cover the roofs of traditional homes and planted near beaches to stabilize soil and reduce erosion. Once introduced across Europe and Africa, its small, easily dispersed seeds quickly began to spread, eventually outcompeting native plants and animals for natural resources.
Today, regions and countries have protections in place to keep species from being introduced in places where they will quickly become invasive. Forest Garden practitioners only introduce naturalized plants that provide a variety of beneficial products and agroforestry uses without outcompeting native plants for resources and upsetting the ecosystem.
Beneficial Naturalized Trees in the Forest Garden
Origin: Northwestern India
- Food: Leaves are most often cooked in sauces or prepared similarly to cabbage or spinach, and are very high in Vitamin A & C, calcium, protein, iron, potassium, magnesium, and other vitamins and minerals
- Wood: Soft, spongy wood is very coppiceable but really only used for light construction work or for fuelwood when little else is available.
- Soil Improvement: The green leaves make a useful mulch, and the press cake left after oil extraction from the seeds can be used as a soil conditioner or fertilizer.
- Living Fence: Straight trunks make good living fence posts. Seeds germinate and cuttings take root easily, and are used particularly around houses and gardens to provide both protection as well as an easily-accessible food source.
Perennial /pəˈrenēəl/ – noun
February 27, 2019
Definition: A plant with a life cycle lasting more than two years. A perennial plant can bloom, flower, and/or fruit, but perennials do not die at the end of a growing, instead, the plants go dormant until the proper conditions to re-sprout are met and the next growth cycle can begin.
It is important to note that perennials will achieve dormancy at different stages, for example, deciduous perennials will shed all of their leaves but keep their branching structure while herbaceous perennials (like the tomato plant pictured) will die to the ground, leaving nothing but the roots to re-sprout. There are four main types of perennials: Evergreens, deciduous perennials, semi-deciduous perennials, and herbaceous perennials.
Perennial, Annual, & Biennial Plants: It’s all about the life cycles!
Different plants have different life cycles, some can last for decades while others last only a year. Those plants whose life cycles end after one year, are known as annual plants. Another plant category defined by the length of the life cycle is biennial, biennial plants are limited to a life cycle of two years before dying. As previously defined, plants with a life cycle longer than two years are perennial plants.
Earthwork /ˈərTHˌwərk/ – noun
February 20, 2019
Definition: A type of soil and water conservation technique made of physical barriers constructed from soil and stone to control, slow, and/or stop the movement of water and soil.
- Maximize water absorption on a landscape
- Control and direct the flow of water
- Capture topsoil and organic material
- Stabilize sloped land
In the Forest Garden: A common earthwork technique farmers use is a boomerang berm – A semi-circle or half-moon shaped berm that is placed around an established tree to to capture water specifically within the tree’s root zone. You can establish a series of boomerang berms so that the overflow from one berm descends into the catchment area of a downsloping berm.
Learn more about boomerang berms and other earthwork techniques at the Forest Garden Training Center.
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Windbreak /ˈwin(d)brāk/ – noun
February 13, 2019
Definition: A barrier of tall and short trees or shrubs planted to slow the movement of wind at crop level and divert the force of the wind to higher altitudes. Planting multiple rows along a field or garden minimizes the amount of moisture winds evaporate from the soil and blocks winds from disturbing crops and eroding topsoil.
In the Forest Garden: When farmers establish windbreaks to protect their Forest Gardens from strong winds, one of the most important considerations they must account for is spacing. Windbreaks are designed to slow, but not completely stop the wind from penetrating the field, if a farmer spaces his rows of trees and shrubs too densely, the barrier creates strong air currents above the field that will damage crops and erode soils. A proper windbreak should be 50% permeable. At the same time, farmers must also make sure that they leave no major gaps when spacing out their windbreaks as this can create tunnels of high-velocity winds that could devastate a field.
When done correctly, a windbreak can protect for a lateral distance of up to ten times the height of the tallest trees. So five-meter-tall trees provide protection extending 50 meters beyond the tree line, as long as the windbreak is uniform in height and spacing among trees.
Windbreaks vs. Living Fences: A windbreak is not part of a living fence. The living fence is typically smaller and surrounds the entire perimeter of a Forest Garden. A windbreak includes taller trees and is usually built on the side of the field receiving damaging winds.
Learn more about windbreaks, their design, and how to care for them over at the Forest Garden Training Center.
February 6, 2019
In the Forest Garden: Although it may seem counterproductive to remove plants from the soil, it is a necessary practice in agroforestry and Forest Gardens. Initially, trees are planted in close proximity to one another, but as they grow they encroach on one another and ultimately begin competing for important resources like space (both above and below ground), sunlight, water, and nutrients. By removing the weaker, less promising trees when things get too crowded, farmers give the remaining plants a chance to thrive more than either would have if left to compete for resources. We most commonly see farmers use thinning in living fences, like the one seen here.
Farmers begin thinning as early as the germination phase. If more than one seedling sprouts in the same planting hole, the surplus growth is removed. Farmers planting timber trees often wait up to six years or until the canopy is filled out before thinning out the weaker trees.
Thinning vs. Pruning: Certain agricultural approaches consider thinning to include removing weaker branches or underperforming fruits to encourage more vigorous and healthy growth, but the Forest Garden Approach refers to this practice as pruning. We’ll be sure to feature pruning as a Word of the Week in the future, but you can jump over to the Forest Garden Training Center to learn more today.
Scarification /skar-uh-fi-key-shuh n/ – noun
January 30, 2019
Definition: A method of seed pretreatment that nicks the protective seed coat to promote faster seed germination. It is a frequently used method when dealing with species with hard seed coats. By lightly scraping or scratching the edge of the seed coat, scarification allows for water to penetrate and activate the germination process. It is important to not scarify seeds on the hilum as this is where the roots and cotyledons will first sprout, damage to this area can prevent a seed from germinating.
In the Forest Garden: Farmers in our Forest Garden Programs are always encouraged to pretreat their seeds by one method or another (read about the other methods here) before sowing their seeds in the nursery. Seeds remain in a dormant state until the germination process is triggered, but if left to trigger naturally, seeds may germinate at different times and speeds. By scarifying their seeds, farmers send a trigger for the germination process to begin, this ensures that all of the seeds will germinate and be ready to be outplanted from the nursery at the same time.
Crop Rotation /kräp rōˈtāSH(ə)n/ – noun
January 23, 2019
Definition: Alternating the types of crops grown on a piece of land over time to ensure a nutrient-rich and healthy soil.
In the Forest Garden: Did you know Forest Garden farmers have the choice of rotating their crops by type or by family? Check out our Permagardening Year-Round Module to discover all of the different crop types and families.
Crop Type – When rotating crops by type, the rule of thumb is for the rotation cycle to be based on the part of the plant that is eaten, from leafy greens, fruiting vegetables, roots, and legumes.
Family – There are many varieties of vegetables that belong to many different families, rotating crops by which family they belong to ensures that a variety of nutrients circulate through the soil to encourage more healthy and vigorous growth.
Companion plants /kəmˈpanyən plant/ – noun
January 16, 2019
Definition: Plants that grow more successfully or with greater yields when cultivated in the same location than when grown separately.
Example: The Three Sisters is a combination of maize, pole beans, and squash within the same growing space. The Three Sisters works because it combines plants that have characteristics that are mutually beneficial to each other, companion plants. The maize provides a structure for the beans on which to climb. The beans provide nitrogen to the soil that the other plants need and the spreading squash plant create a living mulch by blocking sunlight, reducing soil temperatures, and minimizing moisture loss and weed growth.
Agroforestry Tree /ˌaɡrōˈfôrəstrē trē/ – noun
January 9, 2019
Definition: A tree that is purposefully grown to provide more than one significant contribution to the environment or people’s livelihoods.
Synonym: Multipurpose tree
Example: A popular agroforestry tree is the Sesbania spp. known for its many benefits. Farmers often use it for:
- Alley Cropping: Sesbania is easy to establish, it grows rapidly, and coppices readily, providing high-nutrient mulch and making it a promising tree for alley cropping.
- Soil Reclamation: It is commonly planted on fallow land because of its fast growth and nitrogen-fixing characteristics. Harvested leaves and stems make a rich compost or green fertilizer.
- Wood: Highly coppicable, it is a popular source for fuelwood and charcoal because it produces a high amount of woody biomass in a short time which, although soft, is relatively smokeless, quick kindling, and hot burning.
Permaculture /ˈpərməˌkəlCHər/ – noun –
January 2, 2019
Definition: A contraction of ‘permanent’ and ‘agriculture’, permaculture refers to the development of agricultural ecosystems intended to be sustainable, long-lasting, and self-sufficient. By recreating healthy, natural ecosystems, permaculture harnesses the beneficial relationships between different organisms.
Synonym: Sustainable Polyculture
In the Forest Garden: Each Forest Garden is strategically planted with a variety of species that benefit from one another in many ways. Much like the different layers of a jungle, from root plants to canopy plants, the species within a Forest Garden work together to form a thriving environment on each farmer’s land, making a Forest Garden one of the most productive permaculture systems.